Day 50

6/10/2011 – Day 50

Donji Milanovac to Drobeta-Turnu Severin – 70km

There was no breakfast on offer this morning so once we had packed and loaded the bikes we moved a whole 20m down the road to a pizza shack. A slice each and a bottle of Fanta shared between us. It is not that money was tight but we are going to be in Romania today and we wanted to get rid of as much as possible without having to go back to the bank.

Once again the day is going to be all road work, but yesterday proved this was not too bad as the road was not that busy. It was the same again today and that was a bonus. Setting off from Donji Milanovac was hard work as the wind was in our faces, but the road soon crossed a tributary and turned north meaning the wind is now behind us.

The first 11km flew by in less than 30 minutes and we stopped for a second coffee in Gelubinje. Looking at the map we could see a long climb and more tunnels. Oh joy!

The next 10km were on the flat and then the road started to turn uphill. The first climb was not too bad, about 50m over 1km, then the tunnels started again. The first was over 300m long and on a bend, going in we could see nothing. They had painted the walls white to help but you have a tendency to drift to the centre of the road. It is only when you can see out the other end that you realise how far over you are.

The second climb is a killer, 231m over 6km; it just goes on and on. The route is taking you through what is called ‘The Gates of Iron’ where the river narrows down to a couple of hundred metres wide. We speculated on the reason for the name but when you get there it is a gorge cut through a huge granite intrusion.

Finally the tunnels are finished and the end of the climb is in sight, then the prize, a long downhill section where you can just sit back and roll all the way to the bottom. The wind cooling you as it dries the sweat from the climb. This road is relatively straight and an open invitation to speed if you are driving. All along the road there are small shrines with photos of mostly men, who have been killed on this road. Oddly enough there is usually an empty beer bottle next to the shrine; could this be why there are so many?

It is now 30km since the last café so we are ready for lunch and a beer. Tenija is the next town and the last stop for us in Serbia. We find a restaurant just as we enter the village. Once again it will never get a Michelin star but the food is good and the price is right, and the woman running the place seems very happy in her job. This is the last time we need Dinar and we don’t want to take them with us into Romania, it is time to spend them. There is a small shop in the town and we buy water and biscuits, things we will need all the time.

Back on the road we cycle the last few kilometres to the border crossing which is on a dam over the river. Serbia has been a very good place; the people have been so nice. It is a strange contrast at times, people telling you proudly that you are in the Republic of Serbia, and then throwing bags of rubbish on the side of the road where they are ripped open and scattered by the abandoned dogs looking for food. The west of the country appeared to be very poor and badly maintained, but as we travelled east things changed and it became more European. Everything is so cheap for us and the quality and quantity of the food is great. I like Serbia.

Turning off the main road we enter the border crossing, this side of the river is the exit from Serbia. The border guard had an uncanny resemblance to the guy where we came in (cloned border guards?). They must have a set time to delay people when traveling, take the passport, wait 5 minutes and give it back. It seems to take the same time for every vehicle and the guard seems to just sit and look at the documents. They also wanted the bits of paper we have been given at every place we slept, to check on where we have been I suppose.

Once through we cycle across the dam and is it my imagination or did the roads suddenly get worse as we passed the sign saying ‘Welcome to Romania’?

When we arrived at the other end there was a huge queue of traffic waiting to enter the country. As we stopped behind the last car one of the guards waved us forward all the way to the front, and I mean all the way. Our passports were checked and the customs officers asked their questions quickly and efficiently. They actually seemed to have a sense of humour as we told them where we were going.

Turning right out of the checkpoint we are immediately into a set of road works. We have seen queues of traffic from across the river and now we are in them. They appear to be upgrading the road over about 20km all at the same time. Small packets of vehicles pass between traffic lights as they make their way along the road.

The town of  Drobeta-Turnu Severin is not that far away and just before we enter it all the heavy traffic is turned north on a new bypass. Suddenly we in quiet streets with only light, but fast moving traffic. The road conditions deteriorate rapidly and we are back to pot holes and bumps. The first impression is of being somewhere like Italy, but different. When we find the town centre it feels very relaxed with families walking in the pedestrian areas.

We stop for a beer and to look for somewhere to stay using the guidebook and online. The two hostels we find look good but when we get to them one is closed for renovations and the other has gone! As it is getting dark now we decide to ask at the Continental Hotel. The price is 30€ a night, without breakfast. This appears to be quite cheap but when we get to the room you can see why. There is no air-conditioning, the room is like a sauna, the mini bar is broken and there is a bath not a shower. The hotel has seen better days.

The time change has made a big difference, with it now getting dark at 7:30. Going out to a restaurant we sit outside as the last traces of daylight fade. The streets are still full of families, with the children running about freely. The atmosphere is one of fun and there is none of the antisocial behaviour you would expect at home. When we go back to the hotel at about 10pm the place is still busy.