Day 13

30/08/2011 – Day 13

Ulm to Hӧchstӓdt – 69km

As breakfast was not included in the hotel we had an in-room picnic to start the day. Once the bikes were packed we set off to go back to the river and then returned to the hotel to pick up M’s helmet which he had left on the floor just inside the front door.

We re-joined the river through the same gate we came in, this way we did not miss any of the route. The ride out of Ulm is quiet, away from the traffic and at that time of day there are few people about. Due to not having a real breakfast we started to look for an early second one. The next town, Thalfingen, had a really good bakery in the main street where we stopped. They must be used to having non German speaking tourists here as everyone either speaks a little English or make the effort to speak simple German, and they smile when they do it.

On our previous trip M had a Portuguese flag on the back of his bike most of the time, so now we were in Bavaria he wanted the blue and white Bavarian flag for his bike. Using Google translate again he wrote down the phrase for where to by the flag and started to show it to everyone. As we had been in Bavaria for almost a kilometre he expected them to be on sale everywhere!

The first half of the morning is mostly cycle paths next to the roads with not much to see apart from traffic rushing past. It is not until after passing over the motorway that we head out into the country for a bit and then plunge back into forestry for about 12km. We re-emerge on the outskirts of Gϋnzburg just in time to stop for coffee. Cycling in to the town centres is usually very easy as we are kept off the roads most of the way, here we just have a short sprint along a busy road before turning up a stunningly steep slow through the old town gate into the market place. Most of the town centres have been carefully preserved and modern buildings are not allowed (there are some exception).

We stop at one of the many restaurants for a beer and a rest. It is a bit early for lunch and we just sit and watch the world go by for a bit. As it is market day the square is full of stalls selling everything from fresh bread to cooked meats. Not much different from the old English markets we used to have before they filled up with dodgy clothes and jewellery dealers.

We decide to push on to the next town for lunch hoping to find something less touristy and therefore less expensive. No such luck, everything was closed, now there is a surprise. The one place I did see as we came out of Offingen across the bridge was a café specifically for cyclists but it was on the other side and I could find no way to get to it. In desperation we stopped at a picnic bench and finished off the remains of our breakfast. Just a s we finished the whole world turned up, a family group of cyclists, a touring group and some ‘Nordic Walkers’ arrived in a car (Nordic walkers? People ambling along carrying two poles that probably cost them 200€, now that is good salesmanship!).

Abandoning out picnic bench to the mob we set out north this time, heading back into the rolling countryside. We had no objective today, the plan being to cycle until we were too tired to go on. We were doing well following the route through the towns, along the roads until about an hour later when hunger set in. Two sandwiches each were just not enough, we needed more.

In Faimingen we were pushed onto a busy section of road which led us into Lauingen. Just as we were about to turn right I spotted a pizza restaurant and we stopped. It was late in the afternoon and usually they stop serving food after 2pm but this place was still open. Ordering two big beers and a pizza between us we sat back and relaxed. The square we were sitting in was quiet except for the busy road to one side, but once again it was clean and well kept (Kettering take note, no dirty pavements or litter).

Having taken almost an hour here we set off again, slowly, looking for somewhere to stay. Having checked the guide book we knew there were private rooms to let in Hӧchstӓdt but did not know where they were. Following the torturous route through the town of Dillingen and village of Steinheim we finally arrived at Hӧchstӓdt. As we entered the town there were signs advertising private rooms and we followed them.

The place we decided to stay in was a whole house with two bedrooms and a shared bathroom. The landlady was a bit of a character but could not do enough to help, even bringing coffee for us, free of charge. The house, cottage really, was perfect, big bed rooms, large bathroom and its own kitchen. The bikes were left outside in a lean-to but we were of the road and they could not be seen. We were able to sit back and relax as if we were in our own homes.