Hӧfkirchen to Engelhartszell –58km
The big breakfast promised last night actually did appear, there was plenty for the three guests who stayed last night, and we were two of them. Boiled eggs, ham, cheese and coffee, the usual stuff but plenty to go round, I think having a big breakfast and cutting back on lunch will be a good idea.
The weather forecast was for rain all day so we set off early hoping to beat it. The sky was clear as we left but clouds were building behind us and coming our way. The big advantage though was that we would be cycling with the wind again, which makes for good times. When we stopped for second breakfast, early due to the rain starting, we were averaging 22km/h.
As it started to rain we stopped at a large café that looked out over the river only to be totally ignored! Fortunately for us there was a second one just 100m away where we were met with a warm welcome and hot coffee. As we sat out the shower we looked at the options for buying internet access in Austria where we would be spending the night tonight.
This morning’s route was through open fields of maize and rolling countryside but as we approached Passau the hills closed in. The approach to Passau was made complicated by the cycle path across the river which looked like it was supposed to be a tunnel being closed and diversion signs being put up. At least they put signs up we should be grateful for that. The down side is that they are usually small and difficult to see, but after all the practice we have had so far it is automatic to slow down at every junction and scour the posts and fences for any sign with a bike and an arrow.
Passau has a large industrial area as we come in with the railway close by, it is only at the end that the path goes back to the river but it takes you into the centre of the town.
There has obviously been a lot of thought and money invested in making Passau a tourist centre, there are ferry boats tied up on the quay, the river side is clean and open and there is even an audio guided tour to follow. But while we were there it was raining and the town centre appeared to be undergoing renovation as most of it was covered in scaffolding.
After having lunch in a small back street restaurant (which was very good) we crossed the river to the north bank and headed down stream to the Austrian border. This was the least interesting part of the whole trip so far and the route is squeezed against a major road for the next 15km or so. In place the river is only a metre or so to your right. The heavy traffic makes conversation difficult so it is a matter of putting your head down and pushing hard to get it done as quickly as possible. It is only at Obernzell that you turn off the main road as it heads north and find yourself back on a quiet road with little traffic.
The view to the left is thick forest and with the river to your right there is little else to see, but you are still in Germany and that is Austria on the other bank. The actual border between the two countries came and went without being noticed, no signs or barriers we were just there! It was not until we came to the tiny ferry to take us to Engelhartszell that I realised we were in a new country. As we crossed the river we also got to see how narrow the valley had become.
Although not a great distance covered today we decided to stop here as the clouds were getting blacker and lower, more rain is coming soon! Stopping for a beer, as usual, we ask for the price of the room and are surprised to hear 20€ each with breakfast and shocked to see the size of the room, a much better deal than last night.
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