Day 42

28/09/2011 – Day 42

Karavukovo to Bačka Palanka – 78km

After last night’s orgy of food we went down to breakfast fearing the worst, and we were right. Breakfast was as big as last night’s dinner. Eggs, bacon, cheese, ham, it went on and on, once again there was too much for us.

This was a great place to stay, once we had turned the lights out there was no noise, no stray lights, nothing, just the sounds of the forest and the wildlife on the river.

Setting off again this morning we were back on top of the dyke for another 4km then down onto country roads. All along the dykes they are cutting down trees for fire wood. Tractors pulling two or three trailers piled high with logs pass us all the time. But they are also planting new trees behind them to ensure the wood for the future.

After a few kilometres on the roads we come to a village that is almost deserted, we see three men there but that is all. Most of the houses are derelict and falling down. As we stop to check the map one of the men comes over to offer his help. This is becoming the norm here; whenever we stop people come to offer help.

The next village is not much different except there is a grain depot. The few buildings that are not part of the plant are derelict. Just as we leave this village we see a sign for a bar, having only had some herbal tea with breakfast we decide to go for a coffee. Cycling down what has to be the worst road so far we come to this oasis on the edge of another village. The bar is freshly painted, the gardens well-kept and they have Wi-Fi. It is run by an old couple and they are very friendly. The house is such a contrast to the dilapidated village next to it.

From here for the 24km there is nothing but fields or dyke. Today’s convoys are full of maize, the fields full of tractors and workers. From the top of the dykes we can see for miles as the land is totally flat. If these dykes fail when the river is in flood the amount of land affected must be mind blowing!

At the end of this long stretch is the town of Bačko Novo Selo where we decide to have lunch. But after touring the town and asking for directions we can only find a dirty little bar. As we were starving we stopped anyway. The only food available is bratwurst according to the barman and it is better than nothing. While we are drinking our beer the other men in the bar ask where we are from and where we are going, they seem genuinely interested and curious. What actually appears from the kitchen is a large toasted bun, a large burger and two sausages (with raw onion on the side which comes with every meal) a sort of do it yourself hamburger. While not Cordon Bleu it is good and filling and for only 7.50€, including the 3 beers and a coffee you can’t complain.

After lunch is more of the same road and dyke, the dykes being dirt tracks at first. This is where we have today’s disaster; M buckles his back wheel in a pothole. After a quick assessment we think it is OK for now but will need seeing to as soon as possible. With only about 10km to go until we reach Bačka Palanka it should last us to there.

We enter the town we stop for another beer at the first bar as usual and check out the accommodation options. There are two hotels and a few B&B’s. While we are sitting there I watch the traffic going past and there are lots of new bikes. Compared to the places we have visited in the last few days this town seems to have money.

Most of the people we see are in their mid-20’s, all the cars are new (the old Ladas and Yugos are not present today) and the streets are relatively clean. Everything has an air of prosperity.

While we are checking the prices for a hotel a woman stops and speaks to me in English, offering to help us find somewhere to stay or anything else we need. She is the local English teacher and seems to know everyone, the hotel owner, the local bike shop owner, everyone.

Once we have checked in we head off to the bike shop, I already know his name is Marco and he speaks English so that is the biggest problem solved. When we explain the problem and he sees the damage he is happy to help us out but apologises that he can only do it tomorrow morning. Fortunately we had planned a short day tomorrow cycling to Novi Sad and spending the afternoon looking around there before heading to Belgrade, now we will spend the morning here instead and pick up M’s bike at midday, after that is will head on to the next stop. Not really what we had planned but we will not lose any time which is good.

The hotel tonight is not bad at all, the room is clean and tidy, the restaurant downstairs is good and as usual the staff are friendly and helpful.