Day 9

26/08/2011 – Day 9

Donaueschingen to Hausen – 82km

I don’t know if I mentioned this earlier, but the main aim of the trip is to cycle the length of the river Danube. It starts here in Donaueschingen where the rivers Brigach and Breg come together and finishes in the Black sea somewhere in the east.

Amazingly, even though the route starts here and follows the river to its end, the actual moment the river is formed is not included in the journey. To find the source you have to come off the official path and cycle through a green field alongside the motorway. The two rivers come together just before a nondescript motorway bridge (the B2) and the Danube (or Donau) becomes a reality. Despite the noise of the traffic it is a peaceful scene as there is very limited access. The waters are crystal clear and slowly move east with a depth of only a few centimetres. This is a good place for a picnic and to dip your toe in the water before heading back to the path and heading down stream, next stop 3000km or so to the east.

Before setting off this morning we stopped for a few last minute bits at a bike shop and saw a book called ‘Donau-Radweg’ or the ‘Danube Cycle Path’. A series of waterproof maps covering the length of the path through Germany and beyond. As the map we were using only covered the next 30-40km we decided it was a good idea. And it was, it shows the official route, all the alternatives and lots of information about where to eat, sleep and visit on the way.

Following the sign post for the next village, Pfohren, we quickly discover that the route has its own dedicated symbol, yellow silhouette of a town skyline with a blue sky and green hill at the bottom. It is also signed as ‘Eurovelo Route 6 – Atlantic to Blacksea’ (at this moment the Eurovelo website is not up and running so there is nothing to say here). Over the next few weeks other routes will join and leave us but our symbol will be with us all the way, we hope!

In theory, as we are following a river, it should all be downhill from here, and during the day we actually loose about 200m in height. Unfortunately this only works if you stay on the river bank. Due to the need to follow the cycle paths and the unsuitable conditions of the river bank we still end up climbing a total of just under 1200m, some of it quite steep. With the bike overloaded with enough kit to last up to 3 months in the saddle sometimes it is not a question of should I get off and push, more of when do I stop killing myself by trying to look macho?

One of the problems we have identified very early on is that most cafés, bars and restaurants only open at 11am (in Portugal they open about 7am and every village has at least one). Sometimes we ride through a village where there is nothing! Our habit is to start with a light breakfast then ride for an hour before stopping for a second breakfast of coffee and cake. This is not easy here as finding somewhere open has become a major problem. Plus, M needs to check his email for work and again, unlike Portugal, finding free internet is impossible here.

Surprisingly, for a route that has its own guide and is well sign posted there is very little catering for the passing cyclist. There is a Germany wide accommodation guide called Bett & Bike which is on line as well and we have found very useful, and there are lots of signs for bars and stuff, but they tend to stop suddenly, leaving you at a crossroads with no indication which way to go. Sometimes the restaurant is just round the next bend but you can’t see it and turn the wrong way looking for it.

The town of Tuttlingen is a pleasant exception; the route goes straight through the centre of the town with numerous chances to cross to the south bank where a pedestrian area is full of shops and restaurants. Typically German it is well laid out and clean, with on-street tables as well as ample inside seating. This is an ideal place to stop for lunch, which we did.

Another of our habits designed to keep us moving is to have the main course in one place and dessert somewhere else. So after lunch and a beer we get back on the bikes and head east again for another hour or so until we find somewhere for coffee and cake (this part of Germany specialises in coffee and cake cafés). For those beer drinkers amongst us this part of Germany has plenty of small breweries and a different beer can be found in each town, so try them all.

Now the river flows through a steep gorge with high rocky crags on each side. It becomes quite narrow but in places the railway that has been our companion for most of the day takes a short cut through the hills and we are left with the peace and quiet of green fields as the route follows the flood plain through the gorge.

At the end of the day we have reached Hausen and have the choice of a camp site (boo) or finding a private room in the village. The house we find is at the top of a very steep hill (of course) but the room is in a basement flat with kitchen, dining room and bathroom. There are two bedrooms so we end up sharing with a couple who are spending the weekend walking.

During the evening the clouds roll in and the wind picks up, promising a storm. And what a storm it turns out to be, heavy rain and overhead thunder most of the night. Do you still count from the lightening to the first clap of thunder? I did that night and most of the time I managed to get to a count of 1 or 2.